Learn more about the history of the famous Cebu lechon.
In the colonial era, the Spaniards introduced the Filipinos to the concept of slow-roasting a suckling pig in an open fire, then serving it as a centerpiece for a special banquet.
This succulent dish was then reimagined by the Filipinos, turning it into one of the most popular dishes worldwide.
That being said, many have considered Cebu to be the best place to get lechon.
Cebu lechon is not just a cultural symbol of the island, but of the entire country. Many food-obsessed travelers have personally traveled here to get a taste of this famous delicacy.
However, there has been a decades-long debate among the locals:
Where can you get the best lechon in Cebu? Is it in Talisay or Carcar?
Both cities are known for their lechon offerings, and they have dozens of streetside eateries serving this mouthwatering dish. Their timeless recipes have inspired many restaurants to come up with their own version, even getting featured on several international travel and food shows.
You may want to know which one is definitely better, so let’s take a look at their history.
TALISAY: THE ORIGINS OF CEBU LECHON
According to an article on GMA News Online (2017), the first lechoneros in Cebu came from Talisay City in the 1920s, calling the dish “inasal,” after the Bisaya word “asal,” which means “to grill.”
Talisay came up with the traditional way of roasting lechon: stuffing the pig with aromatics and other garnishings like scallions, lemongrass, and salt, then slow-roasting it over a bed of hot coal.
The roasting process is rather tedious, as you have to rotate the pig on a spit until the skin turns golden brown, which normally takes hours.
One notable business is Ruthy’s Lechon, who claims to have made the first lechon recipe from Talisay. Their business was started by their matriarch Mila, whose top-secret recipe is said to be delectable even without sauce.
Ruthy’s continues to thrive to this day, even opening a second branch in Mabolo.
Delivery is free anywhere in Cebu City, and each order includes a side of dinuguan and your choice of ginabot or pork liver.
Another popular store is Leslie’s, which was featured on Netflix’s Street Food Asia documentary series. It is owned and managed by Leslie Enjambre, the daughter-in-law of famed lechonera, Susan.
Susan Enjambre is considered the “Mother of the Inasal Industry in Talisay,” who created her lechon recipe in the 1950s.
Lechon plays an important role in the tourism and economy of Talisay. It even has its own Inasal Festival every October, where some of the city’s best lechoneros gather to give thanks to the city’s patroness, St. Teresa of Avila.
CARCAR: ADDING THE SAUCE
Many Cebuanos have also considered Carcar as the lechon capital of the island. What makes their lechon stand out is the addition of the condiments that Talisay claimed the dish didn’t need.
Carcar lechon is notable for reusing the pig’s drippings, collecting them while the pig is roasting. The residue is used to create their dipping sauce, adding flavor to the already delicious dish.
This innovative cooking style has been replicated by other lechon establishments. It even paved the way for other varieties of the dish, like paksiw, sisig, and humba lechon.
Lechon dishes from House of Lechon, one of Cebu’s best lechon restaurants, are all inspired by the Carcar version.
But if you really want a one-of-a-kind experience, you should definitely visit the city’s public market, where lechoneros passionately invite customers to their quaint lechon stalls.
***
Talisay lechon was made through years of experimenting on the perfect seasoning, while Carcar’s innovative dipping sauce elevated its flavor tenfold. But no matter where you get it from, you will definitely see why Cebu lechon is the best in the world.
Many can’t resist its exceptional and hard-to-beat taste. Just the idea of its crunchy skin and juicy meat will get you salivating.
If you don’t believe us, try it out for yourself and see what’s gotten so many people excited about this dish. If you don’t know where to start, these two cities will definitely do the job.
REFERENCES:
- “A brief history of the yummy Cebu lechon.” GMA News Online.
https://www.gmanetwork.com/news/lifestyle/food/636587/a-brief-history-of-the-yummy-cebu-lechon/story/.
