Balay sa Agta: The Largest Cave System in Cebu

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Explore the magical natural wonders within Balay sa Agta!
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What are the most popular caves in Cebu?

The largest one on the island is known to be “Balay sa Agta”, located within the mountains of Taloot in Argao. Aside from its size and length, it is popular for having a rather mystical backstory.

Travelers agree that it’s a must-try activity in Cebu, with TripAdvisor ranking it third among the best things to do in Argao. It’s an important part of the southern Cebu town’s culture and tourism as both a historical site and a recreational activity.

THE JOURNEY TO “BALAY SA AGTA”

In preparation, participants must contact the Argao Tourism Office or the local government unit days before the trip to arrange for a guide to accompany them to the cave. 

Their usual rate is around Php 500, but you may negotiate with them, especially if you are going with a bigger group that will need two guides. 

The starting point is at the Conalum Barangay Hall, where participants must pay a Php 20 entrance and environmental fee. There, participants will be equipped with mountaineering gear such as harnesses, hooks, and hard hats. They will also be taught how to use them.  

The trek to Balay sa Agta is one of the hardest hiking trails on the island, as participants traverse several high-altitude cliffside pathways. It is said to reach a maximum height of over 80 feet. 

Some pathways are extremely narrow at only a foot wide, including a small bridge made from two broken tree branches. The group can only pass through a single file, requiring a lot of cooperation from the members.

The entire trek from the starting point to the entrance of the cave is around 40 minutes. 

The cave system is around 480 meters long, starting with a wide mouth-like entrance leading all the way to its picturesque waterfall. Along the way, stalagmites and stalactites around the area offer a breathtaking view.

The area is extremely dark, but lights are installed onto the hard hats. Be sure to follow the guide’s instructions as the cave is rather challenging to traverse alone.

The first chamber consists of several guano deposits. 

A book on seabirds defines “guano” as the natural mineral deposits consisting of excrement, eggshells, and carcasses of dead seabirds that are mined for their fertilizing capabilities. (2018)  

In the middle of the trail is the “skylight” area, which takes its name from the huge opening shining a powerful light into the cave. This is where most participants pose for pictures because of its strong lighting and picturesque rock formations.

As you traverse further, you will then reach the end of the cave, where you and your friends can take a dip into a lake of relaxing freshwater. This is a great spot to cool off and unwind after the long and perilous journey.

The entire cave is traversable in a total of 45 minutes, making the distance from the barangay hall to the end of the cave almost two hours. Add in the trip back to the barangay hall, and the entire journey will be nearly four hours in total.

Now that you know what it’s like going there, what is the aforementioned “mystical backstory” behind this cave?

A CEBUANO FOLKLORE TALE

Its name, translated from Cebuano, means “house of the agta”. The cave is believed to be the residence of one of the most well-known mythical Filipino creatures. 

The “agta” (also called “kapre” in Tagalog) is a dark, man-like creature, typically seen smoking a pipe and standing two times taller than an average human. 

An article in CDN Digital mentions that these gentle tree-dwelling spirits don’t harm humans, but rather observe and watch them from on top of a tree. (2020)

The Balay sa Agta story talks about one who has lived within the area for many years. This legend has been passed on from generation to generation, becoming an integral part of Argao’s culture. 

Aside from this, Balay sa Agta is often connected to another Filipino folk legend, Maria de Cacao. This mountain goddess is said to be the guardian of Mount Lantoy, a prominent mountain in the area. 

It is believed that Maria de Cacao used to own a massive cacao plantation, which is where her name is based. This legend is often referenced to the Argao tablea, which is one of its top selling delicacies and products. 

Legend has it that the agta living within the cave is actually Maria’s suitor or husband, paving the way for several stories about both entities being seen within the caves.

So, do you think the legends are true? There is only one way to find out.

*****

The difficult and dangerous terrain has given Balay sa Agta a reputation as one of the island’s most feared hiking spots. But while it may not be for everyone, getting a chance to see this lesser-known tourist spot may be a memorable experience.

The rock formations are a sight to behold, contributing to Cebu’s standing as one of the country’s best ecotourism locations. This hard-to-reach destination is without a doubt one of Cebu’s best hidden gems.

Aside from its natural beauty, the legends and stories about it will definitely pique your curiosity for the supernatural.

HOW TO GET THERE

First, you have to ride any bus enroute to the Argao municipal plaza at the Cebu South Bus Terminal. Once you get there, take a motorcycle taxi going to the Conalum Barangay Hall. 

This is where the trek to the caves will start. 

REFERENCES: 

Schnug, Ewald, Frank Jacobs, & Kirsten Stöven. 2018. “Guano: The White Gold of the Seabirds.” Seabirds.  https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/62618

Cosep, Marc. 2020. “From Agta to Tambaluslos, here’s a quick peek at mythical creatures in PH.” CDN Digital.  https://cebudailynews.inquirer.net/347694/from-agta-to-tambaluslos-heres-a-quick-peek-at-mythical-creatures-in-ph

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